Amelia O’Mahony-Brady
she/her
Mairéad M. Johnston and Decentralised Dress Curation in Ireland
My research explores practices of collecting and curating dress in Ireland, ca. 1975-2000, with a focus on the ‘Travelling Museum of Costume’ devised by Mairéad M. Johnston during this period.
Amidst public disillusionment with Irish state-owned museums, Johnston pioneered a decentralised approach to curation, mounting accessible displays in atypical exhibition venues (such as schoolhouses and shopping centres) across Ireland. These novel productions were designed to 'push back the frontiers of fashion', introducing spectators 'young and old' to obscure yet significant chapters in Irish dress history.
Despite her singular achievements, Johnston has never featured in - nor formed the basis of - a critical study. My thesis will redress this literature gap and revise the myth that Ireland has no meaningful history of dress curation.
Across editorial, archival and curatorial projects, my practice examines the exchange between body, dress and built environment, spotlighting the perspectives of wearers that are traditionally excluded from clothing discourses (e.g tradeswomen, craftworkers). I am increasingly preoccupied with extra-institutional approaches to fashion curation and look forward to presenting my research as part of this year's Threads Symposium (RSAI, 63 Merrion Square 16-17 July) and the Liberties Festival (Dublin 8, 20-26 July).
Stitches in Time (2026) plays with digital collage as archival research output, using uncatalogued materials from the Mairéad M. Johnston collection.
'"idle" "useless" Fan Exhibition' (2026) features snippets of Johnston's catalogue, Butterflies Among the Bees: A Unique Exhibition of Antique Fans (1986), to explore the devaluation of dress artefacts in traditional museum spaces.
A Panorama of Period Costumes (2026) overlays rare installation photographs of Johnston's exhibitions, creating a confused vantage of the display space to caution against over-reliance on images when recording exhibition histories.